‎"We (Asian Americans) have to stop being so fucking polite!" - Asian American dreams: the emergence of an American people, by Helen Zia

Friday, March 2, 2012

Silk Merino Dress: Thoughts and Observations on the Process

When I first started this project, l realized that with such a multi step project I needed a way organizing and keeping track of not just the individual steps in the process, but also my notes,  calculations (so I didn't end up running the same numbers over an over again because I was scribbling on loose scraps of paper and napkins), and samples.  So first I started with a general outline which has since been converted into a multi spreadsheet workbook where I take notes, make calculations and plan out my next steps.

I started blogging bc it's a good place to incorporate not only the notes but pictures of the steps and because I was trying to update too many different people.  So now I take the lazy way and just send my friends  here when they ask for updates.  :)  It's nice too because it's an easy reference point for when I need to ask questions and advice.  I don't need to constantly repeat myself.  I can just point to a specific picture or post and ask what went wrong there or what should I have done differently.  But mostly it's because I know my friends are following crazy project o DOOM and it keeps me chugging along!  Thanks guys for supporting the crazy!

So back to the actual project.
Some things I've noticed:
In general, most experienced spinners have said their handspun is stronger and tighter spun than a comparable commercial warp.  This goes against just about everything I was taught/told when I first started spinning.  I was told...  You can't used handspun for warp.  It'll snap.  From my own observations, I know you can use handspun as warp.  My later handspun which is smoother and more evenly twisted works better especially if I'm spinning with the intention of warping.  I think that if you have the skill set, and it's really not that difficult to learn.  Handspun warp probably is "better" than commercial if for no other reason than there is a thinking brain controlling the hands that are making the thread for a specific purpose while commercial yarn usually more generalized.  Sort of like why custom shoes are more comfortable. 

If you're going to use handspun as warp you should only use spindle spun.  Well,  it is easier to test the strength of spindle spun yarn.  I mean it HAS to support the weight of the spindle.  However, with modern flyer bobbin spinning wheels where you can adjust the take up, I don't see it being as great a concern.  If however, I notice yourself spacing out and starting to spin long draw one handed.  I HAVE to make sure that the yarn has enough twist by plying back on itself.  Again, I don't see it as a big issue because after about 2 wraps around the bobbin the yarn disintegrated and I'm left fishing for the end to rethread the orifice and going back to carefully spinning a smooth worsted thread.

Fiber prep. 
I think for fiber prep doesn't get as much credit as it deserves.  I think garbage in garbage out is totally true.

I am able to spin a smoother thread using the batts that I am stripping and spinning parallel to the fibers than I can just using the straight top.  Also from the hand carded samples.  The drum carder didn't make the original tops that much more disorganized and it fluffed them up a lot more so I have to fight the fibers less when spinning which is important when I'm practically trying to count the fibers I'm letting to the drafting triangle to spin a consistently fine thread.

These are some of the things I'm noticing and learning as I'm spinning.  I'll be back later with more comments and observations.

8 comments:

souriete said...

Of course it is possible to use handspun for warp. WTF do people think was used for warp before the invention of factory spinning machines???

It might not be worth it to most modern spinners to spin both warp and weft, but then YOU are not most spinners.

Oriquilt said...

Yes... I'm even crazier than your average spinner, meaning first world hobby crafter. There are people who do this as their livelihood I'm just playing.

Carolyn Priest-Dorman said...

The trick with wheel spun is to get the twist high enough. That's the most important factor in a successful warp yarn. What degree of twist are you aiming for in the warp for this project?

Oriquilt said...

Balanced 2 ply. Nope I'm haven't measured the angle of twist. Mostly bc I'd have to dig out my itty bitty microscope and hope that I can figure out how to line up a piece of thread a protractor and a tiny microscope without breathing and therefore making the thread move, to be able to take any kind of accurate measurement.

Right now I just let it ply back on itself sporadically it make sure it sort of looks right. Really precise ain't it?

Carolyn Priest-Dorman said...

There's an easier way. Take a protractor and draw a line down the long side of an index card. Then draw lines coming off it at 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 degrees. Instant homemade twist gauge! Remember to do lines for both S and Z directions.

I keep mine in my workbasket. You can usually make out the line of twist in a yarn well enough to match it up with the card. If not, your handy dandy thread counter can help by magnifying. You do have a thread counter, right?

So make the card once and you're good to go. No reason not to be as obsessively geeky and precise as possible on an important project, right?

RIGHT??? ;-D

Oriquilt said...

I don't have a thread counter. What is a thread counter? I have a magnifying glass with a light you can hang around your neck for fine work and a little microscope about palm sized that lives in my wool sample book. My phone has a protractor app that i've been meaning to use. I was hoping it be easier to use bc of auomatic backlighting...

Carolyn Priest-Dorman said...

Also called a linen tester. It's a little folding magnifier that you unfold and set on a textile. Looking through the optic you see the textile surface framed by a square marked off in inches, cm, or sometimes both. Great for determining threadcounts -- and degree of twist in fine yarns.

I have three. Best and smallest one came from Affordable Fabrics/Dragon's Magic, but you can also find them at places like JoAnn or big sewing stores.

Protractor app might do the trick too, though.

Oriquilt said...

Hee! I keep on forgetting to hit publish on your comments! I read 'em and go interesting. It's only when I try to reply I realize oops! :D

Ooh! Ok I will go look next time I'm at Joann's otherwise I get one at Pennsic. Dragon Magic. I took her period fabric class at Pennsic. She's an awesome lady! Although, I was asking some crazy questions until she realized I was a spinner. Suddenly my questions made sense. :D