‎"We (Asian Americans) have to stop being so fucking polite!" - Asian American dreams: the emergence of an American people, by Helen Zia

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Status update

Between the SCA and life, I haven't been working on the dress much in the past couple of weeks. But! This past week I finally finished spinning the third batt and am now half through the third.  I also realized at some point I had swapped out the 21:1 whorl for the 19.5:1 one.  Fixed that oops! :)

I also managed to count and rearrange the heddles on my looms so they are uncrossed and all pointed in the same direction.

This weekend I am headed to the MD Sheep and Wool festival where I will be pricing more heddles and possibly picking up some more.  I'm seriously considering swapping out the wire heddles on my Voyageur with texsolv.  AS

I'm really excited about getting into Deb Robson's Breed Walk class on Sunday. And of course meeting up with friends and hanging out.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Endlessly Spinning

I started a new bobbin last night.  It's taking forever to fill even one layer, possibly bc I have to cross lace the thing 3 or 4 times to decrease the tension.

I need a faster ratio!  Whine whine whine!

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Measuring Angle of Twist

The linen tester came in the mail today.  I "think" the angle of twist is 30 degrees for the single ply and 150 degrees for the double ply.

All I know for sure is I have a headache, and that when my hair fell under the lens it looked coarser than the string.

Picture taken through linen tester.
When I stuck the protractor to the screen it looks closer to a 45 degree angle, but it's hard to tell if it's because the camera was at an angle or if the treadling to wind on the thread introduced additional twist.

The bobbin is slowly filling.  The width of the thread shown in the picture is about what is is in "real" life.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Fiber Jargon According to Michele

So people have mentioned that I'm using a lot of jargon and acronyms.  So I figured I'd try to put together a little cheat sheet.

Angle of Twist: the angle of the twist or the slant of the fibers in the yarn.

Batts: drum carded fiber

Dent: The metal "teeth" in the reed.

DPI: Dents Per Inch, the number of "teeth" per inch.

Draft: The usually a chart that represents the pattern of the weaving or how the loom is threaded.

EPI: Ends Per Inch is the number of warp ends per inch.

Harnesses or Shafts: These hold the heddles and are lifted or lowered depending on the loom to create sheds.  The threading of these determine the pattern of the fabric.

Heddles: it lifts the warp threads and determines the pattern.  Usually long metal wire or strips with holes/eyes in the center that are suspended from the shafts or harnesses.

Merino: A breed of fine wool sheep.  Merino wool is know for it's softness, but not it's luster.  It's probably the most common fiber available commercially to handspinners.  I tend to find it boring to spin.

Micron count: usually refers to the diameter of the fiber. So a 19.5 micron fiber means that the average fiber diameter is 19.5 microns wide.

Reed: the thing that looks like the teeth of a baleen whale on a loom.  It spaces the warp.

Ply: 2-ply is yarn made of 2 strands of string.  Balanced plying means the twist is equalized, and does not contort when relaxed but lies flat.

PPI: Picks Per Inch is the number of weft threads per inch.

Sett: EPI

Silk hankies or Mawata:  They are made from stretching cocoons on a square frame and drying them.

Singles: yarn made up of one strand of string.

Top:  Fiber preparation that is combed.  The fibers are all aligned parallel to each other and tend to be uniform in length.

TPI: Twist Per Inch is the number of revolutions the string makes in an inch.  And no I have attempted to measure this.

YPP: Yards Per Pound the number of yards of yarn per pound of yarn.  It's like yarn density.

Weft: the usually horizontal threads. This gets passed woven through the warp.  In older works this is also called the woof.

Warp: the usually vertical threads on a loom.  It's the framework on which the rest of the textile is woven.

Woolen: in this instance spinning woolen.  A method of spinning that creates a lofty fluffy yarn.

Worsted: in this instance spinning worsted. A very controlled spinning method that squeezes the air out of the yarn to create a tightly twisted, smooth yarn.

WPI: Wraps Per Inch is when you take a piece of yarn and warp it around an inch gauge or ruler and count the number of times you can wrap the yarn around the ruler to cover one inch.

Well that's all I can think of for now.  I'll add more as I think of it.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Attempting to Measure Angle of Twist

So Thora said I should measure angle of twist for the single.  Due to the color and width of the yarn I can't SEE the twist even with a magnifying glass. So I pull out my microscope.  I can see the twist, but I measure it with a protractor.  This is of course when I drop the silly thing and take out the light.  While I was attempting to take the microscope apart in the hopes of jiggling the light to make it light up the little switch popped off and now I can't find it.  Microscope broken. :( Oh well.  I just ordered a new one from Amazon along with a linen tester.  Hopefully, I will be more successful in a second attempt.

Just out of curiosity I did some math based on the Bellwether's estimates.  So a 66 wpi 2 ply * 3/2 is approximately a 99 wpi 1 ply.  Aside from the fact that I'm blind. No wonder I can't see anything besides look! I haz string.

However, I am counting my treadlings.  So for each draft I'm treadling 10x.  Yes it's nuts, but when I check the plied yarn it matches my sample.

I have decided that I'm really not a technical spinner.  This need for consistency and attention to detail is really frustrating.  I just want to spin yarn.

On a happier note, I'm more than halfway done with the second batt.  Once I'm done with this batt I'm going to switch bobbins to make the plying easier.  I really don't think I can or should try to make a center pull ball out of something this fine and prone to tangling and sticking together.  I'm hoping that I can have the sample warped by the end of the month.  But Murphy will have his fun, so somehow I doubt that will happen.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Silk Merino Dress: Thoughts and Observations on the Process

When I first started this project, l realized that with such a multi step project I needed a way organizing and keeping track of not just the individual steps in the process, but also my notes,  calculations (so I didn't end up running the same numbers over an over again because I was scribbling on loose scraps of paper and napkins), and samples.  So first I started with a general outline which has since been converted into a multi spreadsheet workbook where I take notes, make calculations and plan out my next steps.

I started blogging bc it's a good place to incorporate not only the notes but pictures of the steps and because I was trying to update too many different people.  So now I take the lazy way and just send my friends  here when they ask for updates.  :)  It's nice too because it's an easy reference point for when I need to ask questions and advice.  I don't need to constantly repeat myself.  I can just point to a specific picture or post and ask what went wrong there or what should I have done differently.  But mostly it's because I know my friends are following crazy project o DOOM and it keeps me chugging along!  Thanks guys for supporting the crazy!

So back to the actual project.
Some things I've noticed:
In general, most experienced spinners have said their handspun is stronger and tighter spun than a comparable commercial warp.  This goes against just about everything I was taught/told when I first started spinning.  I was told...  You can't used handspun for warp.  It'll snap.  From my own observations, I know you can use handspun as warp.  My later handspun which is smoother and more evenly twisted works better especially if I'm spinning with the intention of warping.  I think that if you have the skill set, and it's really not that difficult to learn.  Handspun warp probably is "better" than commercial if for no other reason than there is a thinking brain controlling the hands that are making the thread for a specific purpose while commercial yarn usually more generalized.  Sort of like why custom shoes are more comfortable. 

If you're going to use handspun as warp you should only use spindle spun.  Well,  it is easier to test the strength of spindle spun yarn.  I mean it HAS to support the weight of the spindle.  However, with modern flyer bobbin spinning wheels where you can adjust the take up, I don't see it being as great a concern.  If however, I notice yourself spacing out and starting to spin long draw one handed.  I HAVE to make sure that the yarn has enough twist by plying back on itself.  Again, I don't see it as a big issue because after about 2 wraps around the bobbin the yarn disintegrated and I'm left fishing for the end to rethread the orifice and going back to carefully spinning a smooth worsted thread.

Fiber prep. 
I think for fiber prep doesn't get as much credit as it deserves.  I think garbage in garbage out is totally true.

I am able to spin a smoother thread using the batts that I am stripping and spinning parallel to the fibers than I can just using the straight top.  Also from the hand carded samples.  The drum carder didn't make the original tops that much more disorganized and it fluffed them up a lot more so I have to fight the fibers less when spinning which is important when I'm practically trying to count the fibers I'm letting to the drafting triangle to spin a consistently fine thread.

These are some of the things I'm noticing and learning as I'm spinning.  I'll be back later with more comments and observations.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

It's that time of year! Shearing season.

So I figured it was my turn.

Trying to figure out what to do with it.  I was thinking about braiding it into rope...

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Spinning Milestone

Done spinning the first batt about 1 ounce!  4 more batts to go.  Then plying and sampling.  I think I'm going to spin half the batts on another bobbin even though the first one will be barely half filled to make the plying easier.  I'm afraid the yarn is too fine to be wound onto a center pull ball without massive tangling and I don't want to wind onto plastic weaving bobbins because the stop and go tension may snap the thread.

I never thought I say this but...  21:1 ratio is too SLOW!!!

Interminable Spinning

The bobbin is SLLLLOOOOOOWWWWWLLLLLLYYYYYYYYYYYYY filling.  It's like watching paint dry.  It's amazing how soft the yarn is despite the high twist.

Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Duck Sauce and Mustard


This is another essay that I wrote my senior year in HS.  It was also published in the Asian American students' magazine in college.  It reminds of where I came from.  It's disconcerting to me that these essays are still so relevant to me today.


Duck Sauce and Mustard

"Dad?  Where did duck sauce and mustard get their names?"  I asked my father at the restaurant one day.  Dad thought about it for a while and took a deep breath.  "Oh no," I thought.  "He's going to tell one of his stories again."  I frantically search my mind for a plausible excuse to avoid hearing his explanation.  Too late, he had already started, I sighed and forced myself to at least pretend to pay attention.

"Because unlike the other sauces, which are made by the chefs, duck sauce and mustard are usually mixed by the waiters or busboys."

"So?"

"So, the kitchen people usually don't have any formal education past high school, if even that much.  The waiters and busboys on the other hand are usually foreign students who decided to stay in America.  They usually have Masters or Doctorates.  The kitchen people gave the sauces these names because of this."

"I don't get it."

"Think about it, doc sauce or master."

"Dad, that's a terrible joke."

"It's true."

"Yeah, right."

"Okay, believe what you want," he shrugged, and started reading the newspaper.

Later that night, I thought about what he had said and recognized the bitter irony behind his story.  It was my parents' story in a way.  Right after my father got his MBA, he started to wait tables.  Mom was a cashier at another Chinese restaurant,  Mom has a MS in math.  Neither one of them could find jobs, because who wanted to hire a "chink" who couldn't speak English clearly anyway?  Eventually through hard work they managed to succeed, the American Dream in action.

Even though we are now well off, I can sometimes still see the bitterness in my father, especially when he tells stories like duck sauce and mustard.

Thinking back on my parents' story I wonder if it's still true now.  Perhaps not as much, but duck sauce and mustard will always stay in my mind.  So remember, the next time you go to a Chinese restaurant, your waiter might just be a "duck" or a "mustard."

Michele Chang
May 14, 1992

Words


This is an essay that I wrote my senior year in HS.  It was also published in the Asian American students' magazine in college.  I keep it around to remind me why keeping silent and ignoring a problem will not make it go away, especially racism.  Some things that happened recently made me realize it was time to dredge it up again.  20 years to the day almost since I first wrote this.  Does the world ever change?  I hope so.  At least I know I have friends and there are good people out there.

Words

The first person ever to say, “Sticks and stones may break my bones, but words will never hurt me!” was either a complete imbecile, or trying to him or herself that hateful, hurtful taunts weren’t as bad as they seemed.  I should know, I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve flung those words back at someone to hide my own pain, to show them and convince myself that I didn’t care.

The first time I remember hearing that was in kindergarten.  Two of my fellow kindergarteners were fighting and calling each other names, like stupid, ugly, etc.  They were the best of friends.  Inevitably, one said to the other in a singsong voice, “Sticks and stones…” The next time I remember hearing it was from a teacher.  Teachers should know better, shouldn’t they?  Mrs. Weinstein, my third grade teacher, told me that.  It wasn’t in response to the usual name-calling, which eight and nine year olds indulged in, but to a racial slur.

*   *   *
The class was all lined up in two files, boys on the left and girls on the right, with about a foot of space between the two files.  We took up about half the hallway.  I remember running my hands along the pale yellow bricks, separated by dark grey cement.  The bricks were about a foot in length a half a foot in width.  The square beige tiles with white dashes reflected form the fluorescent lights above.  The sunlight streaming through the window just a few yards down the hall, casting up such a glare that you barely look at it.  I can still see the picture vividly in my mind, class 3-117 waiting on line from the bathroom.  Mrs. Weinstein took us twice a day.

I had just come out of the bathroom and got on the back of the line, right behind Jamele.  No one really knew her that well, except that she had gotten left back.  She was loud and always arguing wit the teacher.  At this time, she was talking to the girl in front of her, which was just fine with me. I was waiting for my best friend, Sandy, to come out of the bathroom.  She came out a few moments later and we started talking.  So it was much to my surprise when Jamele turned around and called me a “chink.”

I looked up at her dumbfounded and failed to find anything intelligent to say.  “What in the world is a chink?”  I thought blankly.  I could tell it was an insult from her tone and expression, but that was all.  Not knowing what else to do, I turned back and continued my conversation with Sandy.  Another sterling piece of wisdom bestowed upon me by my all-knowing elders.  “If people make fun of you, ignore them.  They’ll leave you along if you don’t give them the satisfaction of reacting.”  Whoever thought that up obviously didn’t know that’s precisely the wrong way to deal with racism.

Jamele continued taunting me until we returned to class.  I spent the rest of the day trying to avoid her and trying to figure out why she was calling me names.  When I got home that day I told my mother what had happened and asked her why.

She looked surprised, “tell her to stop,” she said.  “And if she doesn’t stop, just ignore it.”

“All right,” I answered, doubtfully.

The next day at school I followed my mother’s sage advice.  It didn’t work, as a matter of fact it got worse.  She used to make fun of my eyes and appearance in general.  It got to the point where I couldn’t bear going to school.  So I told my mother that her advice wasn’t working.  This time my father was with her.  He told her to give her a taste of her own medicine, and tell the teacher.  Mom started arguing with him about how two wrongs don’t make a right.

The following day, Jamele started calling me names again.  So I decided to try out my father’s advice, the part about telling the teacher, anyway.  Seeing that my parents didn’t quite agree about me calling Jamele a “nigger.”  Mrs. Weinstein in her unfailing wisdom told Jamele to stop in a bored tone.  Predictably she didn’t.  Again I appealed to higher authority.  Only to be told by Mrs. Weinstein, “Sticks and stones may break my bones, but words will never hurt me.”  In other words, “don’t make such big deal about nothing.”
Afterwards not knowing what else to do, I kept everything to myself, coming to the conclusion – perhaps incorrectly – that there wasn’t anything else I could do.  Not realizing that Jamele was going to make the rest of elementary school a nightmare.
 *   *   *
Looking back now, I realize this was the point where my naïve notions of the innate fairness of the world received a large dent, along with my faith in the infallibility of my elders.  Perhaps I should have made a bigger fuss.  Who knows?  Perhaps the one who was hurt the most by the whole incident was my tormentor.  The only thing she learned was that it’s all right to be a bigot.


Michele Chang
February 14, 1992

Monday, February 27, 2012

Spinning: Bobbin pics



 These pictures were taken through a magnifying glass.  I don't recommend it.  But this shows the shininess of the silk.  The yarn is really not that blue though.




It takes forever to spin even a small lump of roving.  I don't think I've even spun an ounce yet!

Sheep shearing - Adventure in the country

I went to a sheep shearing this Saturday at www.ewecandoit.com. Judi is awesome.  I always learn so much from her.  She had the spinners skirting fleeces.  I think it was part of her diabolical plan to have us start craving these lovely fleeces by having us work on them. :)  Aislinn and Scolastica met us at the farm.
 
Here we are skirting a fleece.

Judi has a hair sheep herd as well to keep her border collies trained.  Shetlands apparently aren't a good herding breed since they scatter instead of bunching another example of their being a primitive breed.
I learn how to lead a sheep using a harness.  Basically, you wait for them to spot the dog, then you pull them in the direction you want them to go.  Unless the one you all holding happens to be someone's pet.  In which case she heads straight for her human.  Clearly not an exact science.  Harry appeared to have better luck.  He seems to have simply tossed them out of the trailer by brute force when Judi asked if he could help them return the sheep to the other barn.  Sheep wrestling.

My hands were so soft after the skirting from all the lanolin!

Here we are waiting for the next fleece.  Doesn't Triste so happy?  Look at the mess we made  under the table, but look at all the colors of fleece.


Aislinn picked up lovely grayish brown variegated fleece!  Judi felt it had too much vm so only charged her $20!  I think if it were an alpaca the color would be called rose.  Enable?  Who me?

I think I'm constantly surprising and amusing Harry by what I consider a "date!" :)  Please drive 1.5 hours into PA where we're going to help a friend shear sheep, meanwhile I've suckered 2 other friends to come meet me there, so we can hang out at this sort of halfway point doing fibery sort of things.  Once we get there, please help herd sheep.  O_o!?  Ok...  so it was more like sheep wrestling. :)
Here's Harry with a shorn sheep.  I have no idea why it looks like Harry has a leash too.

Afterwards, we (me, Harry, Aislinn, Scolastica and John) went to Isaac Newtown's in Newtown to hang out and catch up on stuff, since we hadn't seen each other in close to a year.
Fun weekend adventures!

Friday, February 24, 2012

Spinning Ahhhh!

The other day while spinning the silk merino frog hair...

AHHHH!

I cross laced the flyer to ease the take up.  I needed to adjust I can't even remember what maybe I changed flyer hooks.  I left the fiber dangling.  So given the fineness or my yarn the whole thing was under tension.  Oops flick went my fingernail and the thread snapped!!!!!!

AND I LOST THE STUPID END!!!! It buried itself in the bobbin.  Bad enough when it's a "normal" sized yarn.  And then to add insult to injury I couldn't get enough leverage to break the thread and make another end?!  On the bright side, that I had so much difficulty breaking the yarn as a single bodes well for the strength of the string as warp....  fingers crossed.

STOP LAUGHING at me.  I know it's funny but still!  Pout!  At the time I was so FRUSTRATED it was all going so well then SNAP.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Spinning

III. Spinning
A. Spin the batts worsted. Keep the spindle spun sample handy as a template.
Spinning on the Schacht Matchless. 21:1 ratio
I cross lace the flyer hooks and am using as thin a drive band as I could find and would still turn the wheel. See Maggie Casey, I did listen in class!
B. Spin for a balanced 2 ply. Can always re-spin 2 ply to add twist for cabling.

Now to settle in for a couple of months of marathon spinning. I need to spin at least 4oz of fiber so I can set up the table loom for sampling. At 8400 ypp that's A LOT of treadling.

Blending II

II. Blending Merino and silk top
A. Sampling - to determine proportion of blend based on color and spun yarn weight.
vii. Test spin some samples to determine wpi.
a. wpi 2 ply: 42
After comparing it to the plaid and the crepe swatches in the book 42 wpi is still too thick
b. wpi 2 ply: 66
I can't spin any thinner!
viii. Using the McMorran yarn balance determine the grist. 2yds 1ft
84 inches X 100 = 8400 ypp
You can't see it in the picture but the yarn has blue sparkly bits from the silk!

ix. Calculate the amount of fiber and yarn needed to complete project.

B. Using the proportion determined above weigh out silk and merino and run through drum carder.
- After drum carding the initial batts. I would like to blend them more, but I think that anymore carding will be introducing nepps
- The fiber needs to be carded in small batches otherwise the batts may felt before they can be spun.


Monday, February 20, 2012

Preliminary Bibliography

In a fit to try to remember which books I keep digging for I've assembled a preliminary bibliography for this fiasco.


Alderman, Sharon D. Mastering Weave Structures. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press. 2009.

Callahan, Gail. Hand Dyeing Yarn and Fleece. North Adams, MA: Storey Publishing, 2010.

Davidson, Marguerite Porter. A Handweaver's Pattern Book. Chadds Ford, PA: Spencer Graphics, 2007.

Dixon, Ann. The Handweaver's Pattern Directory. Loveland, CO: Interweaver Press. 2007.

Menz, Deb. Color in Spinning. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press. 2005.

Parker, Julie. All About the Wool. Seattle, WA: Rain City Publishing, 2006.

Still River Mill LLC. Greener Shades World of Color. Eastford, CT: Still River Mill. 2008.

Strickler, Carol. A Weaver's Book of 8-Shaft Patterns. Loveland, CO: Interweaver Press. 1991.

Blending

II. Blending Merino and silk top
A. Sampling - to determine proportion of blend based on color and spun yarn weight.
i. Weigh out equal amounts of merino and silk
ii. Load hand cards and blend.
iii. Spin and ply worsted sample using drop spindle.
- I looked at fabric samples from All About the Wool, by Julie Parker. And determined that I need a double plied yarn about thread fine.
iv. Examine color, weight, and strength of yarn. Make sure to wash the sample and see if the merino bleeds!!!! This will change the amount of blue silk needed.
- The black dye does not bleed!
v. Adjust silk to merino ratio.
vi. Once proportion determined.
It looks like the blend I will be using will be 1/8th silk. It has the best closest color.


Batt blended in preparation for testing on the spinning wheel. I stopped blending even though it wasn't completely blended because nepps were starting to form.


Friday, February 17, 2012

Dyeing II

Round 2
2/15/2012
I ran out of dye so I only put in 11g into the pots. Need to redye the top.

2/16/2012
Redying the top for more color saturation.
The silk hankies have dried and there is much better color saturation.
Soaking the fabric for overdyeing tomorrow.
The top is much more evenly dyed now. Next time I will make the ties looser and make more ties.

2/17/2012
Dyeing the fabric.

The fabric is hanging up to dry. I will be able to tell once it's dry if the color is deep enough.



Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Dyeing

The following series of posts will be the "lab report" portion of my little project (fiasco).

First challenge can I figure out how to post spreadsheets to this thing?

I. Dyeing
A. Goods to be dyed
i. 3lbs of silk top
ii. 1lb of silk hankies
iii. 3 yards of silk habotai for lining

B. Prep
i. Tie up top in 1 yard long bundles
Next time weigh out the bundles.
ii. Put silk hankies in a mesh bag
Next time don't use the mesh bag. It compacts the hankies too much for even circulation.
iii. Soak all silk overnight with dawn and a splash of vinegar.
iv. Remove from dawn solution and transfer to clear water.
v. Soak all silk in a 4.5 pH citric acid solution for 10-15minutes.

C. Calculate amount of dye to be used.

D. Prep dye baths
i. Note to self. Next time immerse the goods in cold dye bath so the dye saturates the goods evenly. Then bring up to heat. Oh well.

E. Immerse in hot baths. Check temperature and stir occasionally.

F. Check for color and exhaustion. May have to add more dye or more citric acid.

G. Remove from heat.

H. Remove from bath and let dry.

Observations:


The dye did
not take evenly. Next time soak the goods in cold dye for an hour. Then place on heat and simmer.
The fabric was much more evenly dyed.


The hankies and at least one of the bundles of top will need to be overdyed.
The fabric will need to be overdyed for more depth of color.











Round Two
In the second round over dyeing the silk hankies. I sorted the hankie
s into piles of ones that needed overdyeing and ones that were ok. I soaked the ones to be re dyed overnight. The next day I placed the hankies in a 4.5pH citric acid solution for 20 minutes. Then I added the dye to the dye pot and placed the hankies in the pot of cold water and let everything soak for about an hour. Once the dye had a chance to circulated. I heated the pots and let them simmer at around 180 degrees F for about 2o minutes stirring occasionally and checking for how much the dye had exhausted.



This time the dye saturated the whole lot much better. The hankies are currently drying.



Silk Merino Dress

So I’ve decided that I need a new dress and so I ordered some fiber to dye, blend, spin, weave and sewing myself one! Makes sense right?

Let’s see how far I get.

So first I started with my project outline, because I think better with a list and this way I won’t forget any steps. Let’s see how close I stick to it.

Project Planning Merino Silk Dress and Jacket

Ingredients:
5lb Hat black merino 19.5 microns, 2”-3” staple length RH Lindsay $18/lb
5lb Bombyx silk top 13 microns, 2”-3” staple length RH Lindsay $25/lb
1lb Silk Hankies 1lb Paradise Fibers Paradise Fiber $4.94/ ounce with volume discount
3yards of silk habotai from World of Isabella

Greener Shades River Blue Dye
Citric Acid

Need approximately 5 yards of 25” wide fabric


Steps:

I. Dyeing

A. Goods to be dyed
i. 3lbs of silk top
ii. 1lb of silk hankies
iii. 3yards of silk habotai for lining

B. Prep
i. Tie up top in 1 yard long bundle
ii. Put silk hankies in a mesh bag
iii. Soak all silk overnight with dawn and a splash of vinegar.
iv. Remove from dawn solution and transfer to clear water.
v. Soak all silk in a 4.5 pH citric acid solution for 10-15minutes.

C. Calculate amount of dye to be used.

D. Prep dye baths

E. Immerse in hot baths. Check temperature and stir occasionally.

F. Check for color and exhaustion. May have to add more dye or more citric acid.

G. Remove from heat and add a more synthrapol and a piece of waste silk to the bath to absorb any excess dye.

H. Remove from bath and let dry.


II. Blending Merino and silk top

A. Sampling – to determine proportion of blend based on color and spun yarn weight.
i. Weigh out equal amounts of merino and silk
ii. Load hand cards and blend.
iii. Spin and ply worsted sample using drop spindle.
iv. Examine color, weight, and strength of yarn. Make sure to wash the sample and see if the merino bleeds!!!! This will change the amount of blue silk needed.
v. Adjust silk to merino ratio.
vi. Once proportion determined. (insert comparison chart here)
vii. Using the McMorran scale determine the grist.
viii. Calculate the amount of fiber > yarn > needed to complete project. (insert excel spreadsheets here.)

B. Using the proportion determined above weigh out silk and merino and run through drum carder.

III. Spinning

A. Spin the batts worsted. Keep the spindle spun sample handy as a template.

B. Spin for a balanced 2 ply. Can always re-spin 2 ply to add twist for cabling.

C. Spin silk hankies 2 ply.


IV. Weaving

A. Planning (insert excel spreadsheets)
i. Pick out weave structure
ii. Draft out pattern
iii. Determine yardage

B. Sampling
i. Weave a 1 yd sample on table loom. Make sure to wet finish fabric.
ii. Adjust set draft etc.

C. Warp loom

D. Weave

E. Repeat for jacket.


V. Sewing (go bug Jackie and Brekke!)

A. Dress
i. Materials needed
1. Silk/wool blend 2ply yarn => fabric
2. Silk lining
3. Silk hankies cord for trim (?)
4. thrums for sewing
ii. Design, Pattern, Muslin etc
1. Need to see what the final fabric looks and acts like before making any definite choices. (drape, color, weave structure)
2. Princess line, knee length or above the knee(?)
3. Sleeves, short cap sleeves or picking up and knitting lacy fluttery short sleeves using the silk hankies. (Won’t wear as well, but I can always pick out and reknit new ones).
iii. Fitting
iv. Sewing

B. Jacket
i. Materials needed
1. Silk/wool blend 4ply cabled yarn, 2ply spun silk hankies for “pin striping accents” => fabric
2. Silk lining
3. Silk hankies cord braid for trim
4. thrums for sewing from the dress.
ii. Design, Pattern, Muslin etc
1. Need to see what the final fabric looks and acts like before making any definite choices. (drape, color, weave structure)
2. Bolero style (?)
3. Braid around the edges.
iii. Fitting
iv. Sewing


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