Silk Merino Dress

So I’ve decided that I need a new dress and so I ordered some fiber to dye, blend, spin, weave and sewing myself one! Makes sense right?

Let’s see how far I get.

So first I started with my project outline, because I think better with a list and this way I won’t forget any steps. Let’s see how close I stick to it.

Project Planning Merino Silk Dress and Jacket

Ingredients:
5lb Hat black merino 19.5 microns, 2”-3” staple length RH Lindsay $18/lb
5lb Bombyx silk top 13 microns, 2”-3” staple length RH Lindsay $25/lb
1lb Silk Hankies 1lb Paradise Fibers Paradise Fiber $4.94/ ounce with volume discount
3yards of silk habotai from World of Isabella

Greener Shades River Blue Dye
Citric Acid

Need approximately 5 yards of 25” wide fabric

Steps:

I. Dyeing

A. Goods to be dyed
i. 3lbs of silk top
ii. 1lb of silk hankies
iii. 3yards of silk habotai for lining

B. Prep
i. Tie up top in 1 yard long bundle
ii. Put silk hankies in a mesh bag
iii. Soak all silk overnight with dawn and a splash of vinegar.
iv. Remove from dawn solution and transfer to clear water.
v. Soak all silk in a 4.5 pH citric acid solution for 10-15minutes.

C. Calculate amount of dye to be used.

D. Prep dye baths

E. Immerse in hot baths. Check temperature and stir occasionally.

F. Check for color and exhaustion. May have to add more dye or more citric acid.

G. Remove from heat and add a more synthrapol and a piece of waste silk to the bath to absorb any excess dye.

H. Remove from bath and let dry.

II. Blending Merino and silk top

A. Sampling – to determine proportion of blend based on color and spun yarn weight.
i. Weigh out equal amounts of merino and silk
ii. Load hand cards and blend.
iii. Spin and ply worsted sample using drop spindle.
iv. Examine color, weight, and strength of yarn. Make sure to wash the sample and see if the merino bleeds!!!! This will change the amount of blue silk needed.
v. Adjust silk to merino ratio.
vi. Once proportion determined. (insert comparison chart here)
vii. Using the McMorran scale determine the grist.
viii. Calculate the amount of fiber > yarn > needed to complete project. (insert excel spreadsheets here.)

B. Using the proportion determined above weigh out silk and merino and run through drum carder.

III. Spinning

A. Spin the batts worsted. Keep the spindle spun sample handy as a template.

B. Spin for a balanced 2 ply. Can always re-spin 2 ply to add twist for cabling.

C. Spin silk hankies 2 ply.

IV. Weaving

A. Planning (insert excel spreadsheets)
i. Pick out weave structure
ii. Draft out pattern
iii. Determine yardage

B. Sampling
i. Weave a 1 yd sample on table loom. Make sure to wet finish fabric.
ii. Adjust set draft etc.

C. Warp loom

D. Weave

E. Repeat for jacket.

V. Sewing (go bug Jackie and Brekke!)

A. Dress
i. Materials needed
1. Silk/wool blend 2ply yarn => fabric
2. Silk lining
3. Silk hankies cord for trim (?)
4. thrums for sewing
ii. Design, Pattern, Muslin etc
1. Need to see what the final fabric looks and acts like before making any definite choices. (drape, color, weave structure)
2. Princess line, knee length or above the knee(?)
3. Sleeves, short cap sleeves or picking up and knitting lacy fluttery short sleeves using the silk hankies. (Won’t wear as well, but I can always pick out and reknit new ones).
iii. Fitting
iv. Sewing

B. Jacket
i. Materials needed
1. Silk/wool blend 4ply cabled yarn, 2ply spun silk hankies for “pin striping accents” => fabric
2. Silk lining
3. Silk hankies cord braid for trim
4. thrums for sewing from the dress.
ii. Design, Pattern, Muslin etc
1. Need to see what the final fabric looks and acts like before making any definite choices. (drape, color, weave structure)
2. Bolero style (?)
3. Braid around the edges.
iii. Fitting
iv. Sewing

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